Old Magic Mouse battery access

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Tis is pretty odd, but hopefully someone knows something.

I am having problems with my old style (replaceable batteries) Magic Mouse.

It has gotten to be very difficult to get it to open for battery replacement.

Any Ideas?

IMG_0540.jpeg
 

Raz0rEdge

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That "switch" gets tough over time, not sure why. But ensure that you are pushing the black portion into the notch and the cover should pop.

You can also try to push down toward the end where the arrow is pointing to make it easier to move the black button around.
 
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It has gotten to be very difficult to get it to open for battery replacement.


Apple, or I should say her Mac User has suggested the solution at the Apple discussions web page that may help your situation.

Maybe some very careful customizing of the button with a small file or Sharp scraper or Dremel type tool then a drop of plastic compatible Lube could possibly help as well that I would be tempted to try.


gregfromlynchburg
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Battery Cover stuck on Magic Mouse
Experienced this problem that others have had but could not reply to the thread.
A solution to this problem (when the battery cover will not open to allow for replacement batteries) is to use a pen knife and place it next to the black 'slider strip' near the apple logo. Next press the blade toward the side of the mouse. That action will bow the removable panel up and allow you to pop it off.
My mouse had corroded that had adhered the batteries to the cover. I removed the batteries and scratched away as much corrosion from the cover as possible. Small bit need to the removed from battery posts as well. Mouse back up and working.
Just thought this may help others.



- Patrick
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Apple, or I should say her Mac User has suggested the solution at the Apple discussions web page that may help your situation.

Maybe some very careful customizing of the button with a small file or Sharp scraper or Dremel type tool then a drop of plastic compatible Lube could possibly help as well that I would be tempted to try.






- Patrick
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Interesting. I am not quite clear about how and where that is being done. I have tried various things with blades, etc, but nothing that I would imagine would give a bow.
 
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but nothing that I would imagine would give a bow.

Maybe some suggestion like this one might work. Just click on the skip introduction to get to the actual video if it pops up it's ugly head. 😉.

Hopefully, it might help.


If that doesn't work maybe check with the iFixit site and they usually have good solutions to such problems, I didn't check.



- Patrick
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Thanks.

BTW, this of course is a MM1. Are both MM1 and MM2 compatible with all MacOS versions?
 

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Yes, the Magic Mouse is a BT device, so it'll work technically with any computer that supports BT devices.
 
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Yes, the Magic Mouse is a BT device, so it'll work technically with any computer that supports BT devices.

Almost OT here as there probably aren't too many users affected, but I discovered recently when trying out a Logitech BT capable Mouse option that my 2011 iMac's BT capabilities were not good enough as it needed some higher level BT for the mouse to be able to work properly. I was rather surprised as I was led to believe that BT was BT since its concept and integration with Macs.

So back and carry on with the USB dongles and the problems I'm having with such mice, that so far I haven't been able to get a successful solution the last more than a week. Very strange.


Anyway, just saying, that legacy Macs with BT built-in are not always compatible with all BT mice.




- Patrick
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Basically the big difference between the version of BT is their power consumption, range and bandwidth. So, for example, headphones that want to send high fidelity audio at a high bit rate for longer distances will like BT 5.3 for many reasons, while BT 3 would yield sub-optimal performance.

But hard to imagine a mouse being that bandwidth heavy to care. And distance is no issue since you aren't very far from your machine.
 
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Basically the big difference between the version of BT is their power consumption, range and bandwidth. So, for example, headphones that want to send high fidelity audio at a high bit rate for longer distances will like BT 5.3 for many reasons, while BT 3 would yield sub-optimal performance.

But hard to imagine a mouse being that bandwidth heavy to care. And distance is no issue since you aren't very far from your machine.
I seem to recall that there are BT enabled things we can do on newer computers than old. Can't recall details right now but I think the 2011 17" iMac does not do some of the BT related things that newer hardware can. The GT specs seem to keep evolving and advancing.
 

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They might add new profiles to BT, but the HID (Human Interface Device) that's used for keyboard/mice has been around since the beginning along with Audio profile and File Transfer profile etc.
 
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They might add new profiles to BT, but the HID (Human Interface Device) that's used for keyboard/mice has been around since the beginning along with Audio profile and File Transfer profile etc.


Just for interest sake, here's what I get on my 2011 27 in iMac running El Capitan Mac OS 10.11.6 when using Mouse preference pain to set up a Bluetooth device:

Screen Shot 4.png

The most involved is a Logitech M720 that's USB/BT Wireless Mac compatible.

It's just not going to work on this 2011 iMac running El Capitan. 😉




- Patrick
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Just for interest sake, here's what I get on my 2011 27 in iMac running El Capitan Mac OS 10.11.6 when using Mouse preference pain to set up a Bluetooth device:

View attachment 39738

The most involved is a Logitech M720 that's USB/BT Wireless Mac compatible.

It's just not going to work on this 2011 iMac running El Capitan. 😉




- Patrick
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All is well her on the BT issue - I would be moving the MM 1 FROM a High Sierra iMac TO a newer one that seems to be happy with all the BT stuff I have (including new hearing aids and the trackpad from the 2011 machine ).
 
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Just BTW, back on topic :) I am pretty clear my particular problem is not getting the latch to release, but that when it does the cover only moves up maybe 1/128" :). A vetu sharp knife blade can, at least sometimes, get it to lift. Next time I open it I will try to sort out where the springiness for the lid opening comes from.
 

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